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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Léoville Las Cases has a noticeable mintiness on the nose that actually complements the red fruit, though it deviates away from what you might call Saint-Julien typicité. After ten minutes, it coheres with ash and black tea aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture on the entry. The 2004 shows fine…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Deep, bright red. Explosively perfumed nose offers seductive raspberry, kirsch and floral scents, with a suave mineral underpinning. Extremely fresh, with precise red fruit and floral pastille flavors strongly reminiscent of a broad-shouldered pinot noir. Finishes with outstanding clarity, sweetness and persistence.

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ Bouchon Racine, London, UK (Oct 2024)

Finally, the 1990 Latour is a vintage that I have not drunk for five years. It is surprisingly youthful on the nose, with dense black fruit, cedar, violet petals and graphite, and it is less opulent than previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied with beautiful poise, and the tannins are more polymerized than the magnum…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Healthy dark red. Aromas of black cherry, black raspberry, licorice, rock and game are slightly wild in an enticing way. At once rich and juicy in the mouth, with firm acidity giving the black fruit flavors a penetrating quality for the vintage. Comes across as clearly more tannic than the 2016 version but with plenty…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

There will be no Amarone in 2016; instead, we’re treated to a new vintage of Rosso del Bepi. This is dark and brooding in the glass, youthfully coy, with a bouquet of dried roses and violets. Complicating whiffs of incense give way to cherry sauce and dark chocolate. It’s rich and complex yet also remarkably…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Beaune Les Grèves Vigne de L’Enfant Jesus 1er Cru has a lovely, sensual red berry, rose petal and mulberry scented nose that has fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, a little more tension than the Les Tuerons with a saline finish. This is a well crafted Beaune.