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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Figeac, now at 20 years old, was a vintage that was affected by the hailstorm during the summer. This bottle is more open than the magnum poured at the vertical in 2015, but the aromatic profile is the same with rustic red berry fruit, ferrous notes and just a touch of juniper berry….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. Rich, new-oaky nose of raspberry, cedar and coffee shows an almost liqueur-like sweetness. Dense, sweet and refined, with superb richness for Figeac. Still quite youthful. Finishes with huge but fine oak-influenced tannins and excellent persistence. Drink 2008 through 2025.

Champagne 2013: The Spring Preview (May 2013)

Bollinger’s 2004 Brut La Grand Année is a beautiful wine with a lot of vintage character, but the style is a bit less oxidative than Bollinger fans are likely to expect. Pears, hazelnuts, spices and crushed rocks all flow through to the tense, vibrant finish. It will be interesting to see if the 2004 puts…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged January, 2013): Light, bright gold. Powerful orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by smoky lees, iodine, chamomile and buttered toast. At once fleshy and energetic, offering deeply pitched poached pear, peach pit and brioche flavors and a suave floral element. Finishes smoky and very long, with mounting spiciness and lingering floral and vanilla…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Classic Pauillac aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice lifted by a violet topnote. Intensely flavored and sharply delineated, with terrific fruit intensity to support its very bright acidity. This firmly structured, gripping wine is a bit dominated by its serious tannic spine today, but the dark berry fruit…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a tightly wound nose: introverted black fruit, cedar and mint. Touches of iris flower and pencil box both emerge with aeration. These aromatics say: “Come back later.” The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine acidity and firm grip. It feels linear towards the finish but is fresh with an…