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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Clarence Haut-Brion has a tad more opulence on the nose than its peers: brambly red fruit, white pepper, tobacco and just a touch of antique wood varnish. Fairly complex – this keeps the nose in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, predominantly red fruit laced with peppercorns and bay leaf,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol; ph 3.87; IPT 75; 37% selection) Aromas of spicy plum, stony minerals and herbs are currently a bit subdued. Suave and fine-grained, with a light touch to its rather wild flavors of blackcurrant, licorice, minerals and violet. Finishes with easygoing tannins…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good deep red. Pretty cassis and floral aromas. Silky, subtle and fresh, with sound acidity framing the pungent dark berry and lightly herbal flavors. Very nicely balanced wine with an elegant finish featuring suave tannins, an intriguing saline quality and subtle persistence.

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that obscures the black cherry fruit underneath that veil. Powerful but not appealing and it deteriorates after 10 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with dry, “furry “tannins and dark berry fruit. A slightly desiccated, high alcohol finish…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru was tasted from a blend of five cuvées. It has an attractive bouquet of mainly black fruit laced with black tea and bay leaf notes, plus touches of rose petal in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tending more toward a red…