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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Medium red. Ripe aromas of wild red berries. Sappy, dense and sweet; full for this cuvee but with lovely energy and inner-mouth tension. The wine’s brisk fruit flavors outlast its firm tannins on the back. I’d wait a good five years on this one.

Santa Cruz Mountains: Scaling the Heights (Jul 2015)

The 2013 Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard Hillside is endowed with a real sense of vertical lift. Beams of tannin give the 2013 much of its energy and overall tension. Dark cherry, plum, smoke, graphite, mint, lavender and spices are all super-expressive, with considerable aromatic intensity added by the inclusion of 100% whole clusters. This powerful…

Saar and Ruwer 2015: Rain in the Nick of Time (May 2017)

At 9.5 percent alcohol, 35 grams of residual sugar, and more than 10 grams of acidity, this year’s bottling from the prow of the Kupp is analytically almost identical to its 2014 counterpart. Ripe white peach is laced with fresh lemon and suffused with chamomile in an aromatically head-turning and succulently flavorful performance. Glossy and…

Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)

(a blend of 95% merlot and 5% cabernet franc; 3.53 pH; IPT 65; 13.8% alcohol): Bright ruby. Sexy, compelling nose of blackcurrant, violet, white pepper and minerals is an absolute knockout. Then very refined on the palate, with a delicate spiciness to the blackcurrant, red plum and mineral flavors, but with noteworthy fleshiness and ripeness…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium red. Sweet cherry, currant, tobacco and earth on the nose. Sweet, suave and smooth, with very good density to the red cherry and rose petal flavors. Quite understated in the context of the year, giving an impression of gentle extraction, but with very good structure for aging and considerable class.

Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Glistening yellow. Salty, mineral-tinged aromas of pear and peach nectar, beeswax, nougat and toasted nuts pick up a floral accent as the wine opens up. Chewy and focused on the palate, offering lemon pith, dried pear, honey and fennel flavors that deepen through the midpalate. Smoothly plays depth off energy and finishes long and chewy,…