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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

This is the first time that I encountered the 2004 Salon, this in magnum format. What a gem! It has a typically steely and almost terse nose before it opens with thrilling scents of dew dappled green apples and citrus lemon mixed with crushed limestone. The palate is crystalline, brilliantly defined and poised with an…

Argentina Reaches New Heights (Sep 2019)

Dark ruby-red. Musky, wild aromas of black raspberry, boysenberry, espresso, licorice and sexy spices. Fat, plush and sweet but also savory, offering fully ripe, dense flavors of dark raspberry, blueberry, olive tapenade and smoky minerality. Quite broad and round, even if it can’t quite match the 2016 for complexity or grip. Spreads out on the…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Acte II (Rouge) has a very pure nose of black cherries and light gamy notes, just a little reduced at first, so don’t be afraid to decant this. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly raw entry. There is a bit of hardness here, a slightly granular texture, and a welcome black olive/briny…

2020 Barolo: Selective Excellence (Jan 2024)

The 2020 Barolo Bricco delle Viole, Vajra’s flagship, is very fine. Dark cherry, kirsch, blood orange, spice and lavender are nicely amplified. The 2020 is gracious and elegant, but its youthful Nebbiolo tannins will require some time to soften. The 2020 is another wine that captures my keen interests with its sublime balance. I would…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 2017 Pavie-Macquin possesses tremendous fruit density, but it also comes across as raw and not fully formed. Then again, the 2017 is in cement undergoing fining, which is always the most difficult stage in which to taste a young wine.

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pavie-Macquin was impressive from barrel and now in bottle, it continues to show potential. The bouquet is very pure with small dark cherries, cassis, violet and peony aromas. The new oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins that belie the backbone of this Saint-Émilion. There is a citric element…