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2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

(15.2% alcohol) Very pale color. Crystallized ginger, candied grapefruit, lime skin, melon and mint on the nose. Rich and quite primary, combining very ripe yellow fruit notes with more bracing licorice and mint. Very dense and quite dry, even a bit youthfully aggressive today. (This actually has 2.2 grams per liter of residual sugar, which…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Cheval Blanc (Oct 2011)

(a 53/47 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 13% alcohol; yield of 45 h/h): Bright red. Pure aromas of strawberry, flowers, soy sauce, espresso and minerals. Then clean and straightforward on the palate, with nicely balanced flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes very long and smooth. A very good Cheval Blanc, bigger than the 1996…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good full red. Profound, multidimensional nose combines redcurrant, plums, raspberry, cherry, mocha and humus: really quite singular. Wonderful sweetness and depth of flavor; lush but with a firm spine. Already offers compelling inner-mouth perfume, but I suspect this wine will soon close down. Finishes with terrific length and very suave, sweet tannins that coat the…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Auxey-Duresses Blanc, bottled at the beginning of September, has a perfumed, lavender-tinged bouquet that is well-defined. The palate is clean and fresh, quite rich in style with orange zest and mango notes, very fruity on the finish. Easy-drinking in style, though enjoyable too.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Auxey-Duresses Blanc, matured in 10% new oak for 11 months, has an attractive bouquet with hints of rosewater tincturing the malic fruit. Good tension here. The palate is well balanced with a smooth and quite honeyed opening, yet there is the acidity here to keep everything in balance with pleasant orange zest and…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Phélan Ségur turned out beautifully. Dark, somber notes typical of this Saint-Estèphe are present, but also attenuated by the medium-bodied structure of the year. Red cherry, gravel, incense, licorice and dried herbs fill out the layers nicely. The 2021 is a quiet Phélan Ségur, yet all the elements are nicely balanced.