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Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1991 Palmer comes from a challenging, frost-affected vintage, yet the bouquet is splendid with plenty of red and black intermingled fruit, rose petals, violet with orange pith and light menthol scents. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, lithe in the mouth and harmonious. Maybe it lacks a bit of grip, yet there is…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Calon Segur is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 33% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. Though I have tasted most vintages of this estate since 1982, this was in fact the first time to taste this particular vintage. It has a rustic, slightly ferrous bouquet, dominated by black fruit, copper…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Aromas of sweet cherries, mocha and oak. A straightforward, round wine that lacks the sweetness and mid-palate richness of the vintage. Seems slightly pinched on the finish. Where’s the ripeness? 84. A second sample showed considerably more fat and richness, as well as ripe finishing fruit, and merited an 87.

Château Siran 1918-2008 (Jun 2020)

The 1989 Siran offers attractive scents of raspberry coulis and wild strawberry mix intermingling with saddle leather and gamey scents that I have noticed before. The palate is well balanced with an irony tincture, touches of dried blood infusing the predominantly black fruit, that gamey note becoming slightly fungal (morels?) as it opens in the…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

Christian Seely advised that magnums of the 1988 Pichon Baron are now far superior to bottles. Only one way to find out. Two magnums tasted and both completely vindicate Seely’s view. The bouquet is the personification of a mature Pauillac on the nose with graphite and cedar-infused black fruit. There’s a hint of cassis in…