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Cellar Favorite: 1928-1998 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande (Aug 2024)

1988 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande is another vintage I had not tasted for a few years. I have recently encountered magnums of 1988 Pichon-Baron, so I was intrigued to see how they compared. The Pichon-Longueville has a classic bouquet with freshly rolled tobacco, brine and sufficient black fruit that renders the aromatics austere in the…

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1991 Yquem is my fourth encounter with this vintage that is better than the vintage reputation. This is more fragrant than the 1993 and 1994 on the nose, fig jam mixed with Aszú-like fruit, a subtle adhesive scent in the background. The palate is well balanced with a tangy entry and a keen thread…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Vintage is an infant. Tightly wound and vibrant, the 2008 still needs time. Today, bright acids dominate. I wouldn’t dream of touching this anytime soon, as the 2008 remains embryonic, although from time to time the barest hints of signature Krug notes peek out from the wine’s structure. Vibrant saline notes and sculpted…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Vintage is an infant. Tightly wound and vibrant, the 2008 still needs time. Today, bright acids dominate. I wouldn’t dream of touching this anytime soon, as the 2008 remains embryonic, although from time to time the barest hints of signature Krug notes peek out from the wine’s structure. Vibrant saline notes and sculpted…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2018 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 30% Cabernet Franc, has a commendable bouquet given the heat of that season. Blackberry, a touch of damson, scorched earth and light violet scents emerge with aeration. That said, it doesn’t fully have the delineation of the previous vintage. The palate is powerful and typically burly for VCC,…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Yquem has a potent nose with yellow plum, tangerine, peach and honey, exuberant and with plenty of botrytis. There is a real presence in this wine. The palate is well balanced with an unctuous entry and a keen thread of acidity, effervescent with blood orange, white peaches and pineapple toward the finish. Very…