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BOND: A Complete Retrospective (Nov 2017)

Another highly expressive wine, the 2007 Melbury is a pure joy to taste. Sweet tobacco, herbs, dried flowers, menthol and licorice add aromatic intrigue. There is a good bit of complexity and raciness in the glass. Even so, the 2007 could use a bit more time for the tannins to soften. I imagine the 2007…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Léoville Poyferré has quite a perfumed and minty bouquet, a common trait across many of the Left Bank '05s. Firm tannins frame plenty of tarry black fruit on the boldly styled palate. The 2005 is fresh but a little more tannic than the wines made nowadays. Dense and a little sinewy on the…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Clos du Marquis has a fleshy and ripe bouquet with ferrous red berry fruit, undergrowth and light minty aromas. There is something almost South African about the aromatics! The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Acidity countervails satisfying flesh on the mid-palate, and the fully mature finish with notes of meat juices and…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Clos du Marquis has a fleshy and ripe bouquet with ferrous red berry fruit, undergrowth and light minty aromas. There is something almost South African about the aromatics! The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. Acidity countervails satisfying flesh on the mid-palate, and the fully mature finish with notes of meat juices and…

Oregon Pinot Noir: The Exceptional 2014s and Often Surprising 2013s (Dec 2016)

Limpid ruby-red. Smoke-accented aromas of fresh red and dark berries, licorice, pungent flowers and vanilla take on a hint of cola with air. Spicy and expansive on the palate, offering intense raspberry liqueur, spicecake and mocha flavors that show excellent depth and building sweetness. Smooth, harmonious tannins give shape to a strikingly long, red-fruit-dominated finish…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Winemaker Eric Kohler told me that the 1985 Lafite-Rothschild suffered blockage due to summer heat. This ex-château bottle has a lovely nose with melted dark chocolate, underbrush, cedar and allspice mixed into the mature red fruit, just a tiny bit sauvage. The palate is medium-bodied and quite savoury on the mid-palate, with supple tannins, dried…