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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Romanée St.-Vivant shows off all the signatures of this site, with soaring aromatics, bright, chiseled red-toned fruit and an understated expression of intensity that is all about finesse. A model of precision and nuance, the RSV is one of my early favorites in the range. Clean, saline notes add to a feeling of…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Good dark red. Soil-driven aromas of cherry liqueur, cocoa powder, mocha, earth and noble herbs. Wonderfully pliant and sweet on entry, then densely packed and tight for all its inner-mouth perfume. Flavors of dark berries and dried flowers are lifted by ethereal dark spices. An outstanding expression of soil, this very suave wine finishes horizontal…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2013 Grands-Échézeaux comes across as quite wild in its powerful, unrestrained personality. In recent vintages, the GE has become more polished, but the 2013 is a real brute today. Dark, savory almost Syrah-like notes take shape in the glass. Game, smoke, herbs and wild flowers wrap around the imposing, bracing finish. I expect the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy dark red. An initial note of reduction dissipated to reveal sexy scents of raspberry, blueberry, smoky minerals and Oriental spices. Densely packed and vibrant, with concentrated berry fruit accented by pepper and spices from the stems. Firm tannins will support slow development in bottle. There’s way more inner-mouth tension and éclat here than I…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Château d’Yquem has a powerful and well defined bouquet, very pure with honey, barley sugar and quince. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity that cuts through the concentrated botrytised fruit. Very persistent and quite rich on the finish, this is decadent and rather gorgeous. Long-term. Tasted blind at…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Luminous golden yellow. Cool, pure aromas of white peach, honeyed mango, guava nectar, white flowers and saffron are complicated by elements of crushed stone and spicy lemony botrytis. Suave and intensely flavored, with mineral-spiced apple, mango, passion fruit and grapefruit flavors offering outstanding purity, precision, and depth. The brisk but harmonious acidity gives this great…