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Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1997 Ornellaia (magnum) is a big, fat wine endowed with tons of fruit. Mocha, coffee beans and ripe, dark fruit emerge from the glass on a rich, opulent frame. The structural elements are easy to overlook, as the tannins are so juicy and ripe, and the fruit is incredibly intense. Simply put, everything is…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Bright, youthful red-ruby. Very ripe, complex aromas of black fruits, violet, exotic spices, licorice and humus. Then hugely full and sweet in the mouth, but with a faint greenness. Finishes with big, slightly rustic tannins-less fine-grained than usual for this estate. A classic wine from a hot year in which the ripening came in a…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent deep ruby color. Primary aromas of dark berries, cherry, shoe polish and smoky oak. Supple, rich and textured, but not as pliant or layered as the ’97 due to slightly edgy acids. Finishes with well-distributed, dusty tannins that will require a few years to soften.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Superb, saturated dark ruby color. Knockout aromas of black raspberry, smoked duck and suave, smoky oak. Thick, sweet and velvety in the mouth; the fruit explodes with aeration, saturating those hard-to-reach places in the mouth. Really fabulous sweetness. A slightly roasted note suggests great ripeness (though I recall Thunevin telling me two years ago that…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red color. Lively aromas of black raspberry, black plum and smoky, spicy oak. Supple and very intensely flavored; not as fleshy or fat as the ’95 but seamless. Again, has plenty of firming acidity. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and persistent spicy flavor. From a just-racked barrel: More precise nose hints at violet. Lush and…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated ruby-red. Expressive, floral aromas of black raspberry, black cherry, toffee, licorice and chocolate; suggests an almost roasted ripeness. Chocolatey and very dense in the mouth; rather tightly wrapped today but still much broader than the ’97. Finishes very long, with substantial tongue-coating tannins. Powerful and impressive for the vintage.