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Trentino & Alto Adige: The Sky’s the Limit (Jun 2022)

The 2017 San Leonardo is dark, inward and intense with masses of crushed black currants, mint, sage, and balsamic spice. This pulls you close, as further depths of clove and tobacco form in the glass. It coasts along the palate with dense and polished textural fruits, mineral to the core, yet also elevated by brisk…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

Davide Fregonese’ s 2017 Barolo Prapò is a powerful, burly wine. A blast of dark cherry, sage, menthol, licorice, game and tobacco hits the palate as this potent, muscular Barolo shows off its Serralunga personality. I would give the 2017 a few years to soften.

Campania: Change Is Imminent…Or Is It? (Jun 2023)

Deeper, darker and richer than the 2010 Taurasi, the Riserva is a striking model of the earth tones, dark fruits and exotic spices that make Aglianico such a fascinating variety. This is dense and weighty upon entry, with gorgeous acidity and wild sour citrus tones to balance, all beneath a textural wave of blackberries and…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Good pale color. Fresh, flinty aromas of apple, fresh herbs and dried fruits. Very rich and pliant in the mouth, with a strong resiny/spicy flavor. Strong for the vintage, and very well balanced. Quite powerful and long on the finish, with complex flavors of honey, earth and tobacco.

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Lower-toned aromas of boysenberry, mulberry, plum, tobacco, star anise and roasted oak. Vinous and rather tough in the mouth, with strong acid spine. This was harder to view than most ’96s on my recent tour. Finishes with rather tough tannins. In an awkward stage following the bottling last July.