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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has a highly perfumed and floral bouquet with pressed violets and incense infusing the dark cherry and boysenberry fruit. Superb precision and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy texture, one of the more sensual and velvety of the domaine’s 2018s, and the harmonious, seductive, almost…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru has a slight reduction that dissipates with aeration. There is plenty of attractive, pure red fruit here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, fine acidity, black cherry and blueberry fruit with a well-defined, quite mineral-driven finish. This is very pretty and very promising. This will have 12-15…

Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Jun 2013)

I have always adored San Giusto a Rentennano’s 2006 Percarlo, a wine I bought heavily as 2006 is my son’s birth year. Is the 2006 ready? Of course not, but after a gentle decant it is gorgeous with this menu. It is an especially good match for the pigeon and quadrotto. The bright Sangiovese acidity…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Deep magenta. Displays highly perfumed red and blue fruit preserve, floral, spice and mineral qualities on the expansive nose. Juicy and broad on the palate, offering ripe blueberry, black raspberry and candied violet flavors that tighten up slowly and become spicier with aeration. Blends the power of this vintage deftly with energy and finishes wonderfully…

Northern Rhône: A First Look at the 2019s (May 2020)

Tasted in components. #1, from 18-year-old vines in Chaillets: smoke-accented cherry and blackberry qualities, plus a suggestion of licorice. Silky and open-knit, offering juicy dark berry flavors that deepen on the back half. Round tannins come in late. #2, from Dardouille: deeper and more brooding than the Chaillets, showing an array of black and blue…

Brunello di Montalcino 2007 and 2006 Riserva (Jul 2012)

Bright deep red. Subtle, precise aromas of raspberry, minerals, smoke and flowers hint at a liqueur-like ripeness; there’s something almost Burgundian here. Dense, thick and compellingly sweet, with outstanding chewy depth and sufficient energy to its sappy red berry and mineral flavors. Utterly seamless Brunello with chewy, lush tannins and outstanding lingering sweetness. A very…