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Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Deep violet. Oak-spice- and mineral-tinged aromas of ripe cherry and black currant are joined by garrigue and floral notes that build in the glass. Alluringly sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering juicy red and blue fruit preserve, succulent herb and licorice flavors braced by an undercurrent of smoky minerality. A vanilla nuance emerges on…

Alto Piemonte & Valtellina, Continued… (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Carema Riserva is another knock-out effort from the Produttori di Carema, the local cooperative that has really been on fire these last few vintages. Open-knit and inviting, but with all the complexity that is so typical of the appellation, the 2016 is superb. Crushed flowers, mint, sweet tobacco, cedar and licorice are all…

New Zealand Reds: Treading Lightly (Apr 2022)

The 2017 Pinot Noir (Southern Valleys) is drinking beautifully now with its fairly complex, brooding style and core of concentrated fruit. It’s fresh with fine, polished tannins that coat the mouth. You can expect cherry, plum, licorice, subtle vanilla notes and Christmas spices. While this is entering a lovely window of early maturation, it will…

Argentina’s White Wine Revolution (Jun 2020)

A Chardonnay from Gualtallary that underwent a carefully calibrated ageing process developed by the winemaker Alejandro Vigil: 500 liters French oak barrels, 35% new, mixed with increasing quantities of flor. Golden yellow in color, the 2018 Chardonnay El Enemigo combines aromas of pear and apple with hazelnuts, toffee and a touch of acacia. Creamy with…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 d'Armailhac is bright, fresh and so inviting, just as it was en primeur. Sweet red cherry fruit, cedar, spice, tobacco and anise add lovely aromatic complexity. All of the intensity of the year comes through nicely and yet the personality of Armailhac is evident also. I would cellar the 2018 for at least…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 d’Armailhac has retained its alluring floral bouquet, delivering layers of blackberry and boysenberry fruit, crushed violet petals and background scents of marjoram and sage, all beautifully defined. The palate is perhaps just a little oakier than I recollect from barrel [I subsequently found out that this spent 17 months in barrel, longer than…