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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good full medium red. Knockout, soil-driven nose combines black raspberry, flint, coffee and smoky minerality. Like liquid silk in the mouth but with superb energy for the vintage. In its creamy sweetness, firm structure and tight but fine-grained texture this reminded me of a platonic 2007 Barolo. The rising, palate-staining finish features noble tannins and…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Hosanna was the third vintage of this cuvée, and I was rather tepid in my reaction upon release. Now, after 20 years (has it really been that long?), I am still not convinced. It has a herbaceous nose, indicating that maybe some fruit did not reach phenolic ripeness. It certainly pales against some…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Bright, deep red. Sexy, quintessential Pomerol aromas of raspberry, redcurrant, cherry, leather and smoke. Lush, pliant and seamless; round, broad and shapely but classically dry. Finishes with noble tannins and excellent length. Very suave and stylish wine.

2017 Barolo: Here We Go Again… (Feb 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Ginestra Casa Matè is a dark, mysterious wine. Black cherry, menthol, tobacco, licorice, spice, new leather and pine meld together in a super-classic expression of Ginestra. Deep, rich and enveloping, the 2017 is so impressive in the early going. Here, too, the finesse of the tannins is remarkable.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

One of the real highlights on the Left Bank, the 2005 Mouton Rothschild is a dark, potent Pauillac. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice and leather all take shape in the glass. The 2005 is a dense, powerful and explosive wine endowed with tremendous energy and pure power. The fruit is just starting to emerge, but…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…