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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has another precise bouquet with shimmering red fruit, the 75% whole bunches deftly assimilated and imparting a light spiciness. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite-tinged entry. It’s quite strict at the beginning, but there’s real intensity. It translates the limestone soils to beautiful effect on the finish…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru is bright and nervy, but also very nicely lifted, with pretty aromatics that make a strong opening statement. Crushed flowers, sage, mint, red-toned fruit, orange peel and sweet pipe tobacco are all delineated. There is some angularity to the contours. Bottle age will help, but I expect the 2021 will…

Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on September 30, October 1 and 2 at 13.9hL/ha and bottled on March 15 with some natural CO2 from the fermentation. It has a light bouquet with dark plum, raspberry and a touch of strawberry, opening nicely in the glass. As it did in barrel, it unfolds and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru has an understated, precise bouquet, fleeting glimpses of Dorset plum and raspberry, white-tipped strawberry, focused and developing subtle floral aromas with time. Surprisingly lively and almost spicy on the palate thanks to a dash of white pepper, what I appreciate here is its gentle grip and salinity on its harmonious…

Vinous Table: Noble Rot Soho, London, UK (Sep 2020)

To baptize the new restaurant, one of our generous guests proffered a magnum of 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste. It is a few years since I last tasted this Pauillac but it remains a magnificent wine. Limpid and youthful, it displayed very little ageing compared to other 1982s, partly due to the larger format. The bouquet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, currant, mint and cedar. Dry, penetrating and stylish, with very primary flavors and noteworthy vinosity. Classic claret intensity and grip without any excess weight. The flavors build impressively on the firmly tannic, youthfully tough finish. This bottle was still a few years away from full maturity and should…