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2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Rich, dense and explosive, with tremendous power the 2017 is positively stellar from the very first taste. Macerated dark cherries, sage, spice, star anise, orange zest, mint and new leather give the 2017 an exotic, racy feel that is hard…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Roc de Cambes has a vivid bouquet with ebullient redcurrant and cranberry fruit that "jump" out of the glass, yet the aromatics remain tender and graceful, to use two words uttered by François Mitjavile in describing the vintage. The palate is very well balanced with filigree tannins, dark berry fruit laced with clove…

Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 2004 La Lagune has a well-defined bouquet, something that I think was missing throughout the wines up until this date. Blackberry, briary, touches of rose petal and then later, hints of Lapsong Souchang and sous-bois all contribute to a very satisfying array of aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, a mixture of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

(55% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 15% petit verdot; all of the fruit was in by September 29 except for the cabernet) Medium ruby-red. Aromas of blackberry, violet, bitter chocolate and licorice. Supple, sweet and suave, with dark berry, violet and licorice flavors enlivened by bright acidity. Firm tannic spine gives this wine a youthful…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep ruby-red. Superripe aromas of currant, smoke and coffee. Complex and expressive in the mouth, with lush but lively fruit and a sappy quality. Very pure, shapely wine with an attractive restrained sweetness and no shortage of depth. This largely avoids the jammy side of the vintage. Finishes with broad tannins and very good…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2003 Brane-Cantenac has never been the best vintage of recent years. Here, the wine is still smudged and earthy on the nose, displaying less aniseed than I have observed in the past. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin, toffee-tinged red fruit and a rather monotonous finish that pales against other vintages. Drink soon….