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Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

The 1988 Dom Ruinart Rosé is totally surprising,. Sweet tobacco, worn-in leather, earthiness, bramble and dried cherries meld together in the glass. The aromas and flavors are fully developed, yet the wine retains incredible density and pure power. Readers who enjoy fully mature Champagnes will adore the 1988 Dom Ruinart Rosé. The 1988 needs to…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

After all these years, the 2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to be expressive. In this tasting, the 2003 is distinguished by its vertical build and a real sense of gravitas. The natural power of the year – once quite hidden – now comes through loud and clear.

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light orange. Heady red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, potpourri and tarragon. Broad and weighty on the palate, offering intense raspberry and blood orange flavors and a bright mineral overlay. No way that I’d have guessed that this came from a hot vintage like ’03. Closes smoky, stony and extremely…

Dom Ruinart at Cru, New York (Oct 2008)

Among the wines of the 1990s, I especially liked the 1993 Dom Ruinart, which was beautiful, especially considering this was an original disgorgement. Layers of honeyed fruit, licorice and mint were woven together in a captivating fabric. We also caught this wine at near peak, as it was firing on all cylinders. What a beautiful…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Léoville-Barton is clearly one of the wines of the vintage. Powerful and strapping in the glass, the 2005 is a big, big wine. Huge swaths of tannin wrap around a core of inky black fruit, new leather, spice, gravel, mocha and licorice. The wine’s sheer density is impressive, but its balance is even…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep ruby. Wonderfully perfumed nose offers cassis, minerals, tobacco, flowers, mocha and truffle. Bright, mineral-driven and concentrated, with terrific underlying backbone giving energy and definition to the dark berry, mineral and chocolate flavors. There’s a floral lift here that’s exhilarating to find in the very ripe 2005 vintage. Finishes very long and classy, with a…