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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has long been one of my favorite Saint-Julien wines, and this does not disappoint. Dark in color, it has a gorgeous bouquet of mulberry, raspberry, melted tar and rose petal aromas, and a little exoticism courtesy of a dab of fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite dense…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright medium ruby. Refined, floral aromas of black- and redcurrant, minerals and graphite; at once very ripe and subdued. Juicy, precise and penetrating; not hugely fleshy but stylish and elegant. Finishes with lovely grip and clarity. Nicely understated for the vintage.

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré is a vintage that I have not seen for a while. This bottle is splendid. It is Ferrous on the nose and offers wilted rose petals, asphalt and pencil shavings, now firmly into its secondary aromatic phase yet maintaining impressive delineation and freshness. Maybe a little rustic compared to recent vintages,…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Clos du Marquis has an old-school Saint-Julien bouquet with tertiary, slightly leathery red fruit that needs more fruit than the growing season didn’t bestow. The palate is medium-bodied with a soy-tinged entry. A little pinched with rustic tannins, it just misses some flesh on the finish. Drink soon.

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Tignanello is just beginning to enter the early part of its drinking window, although it clearly has enough stuffing to drink well for another 20 years, if not longer. Smoke, graphite, plums, earthiness, black cherries and spices take shape in the glass, but it is the wine pure power and intensity – both…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Earth, mushroom and toffee on the nose. Big, rich and very dry; features the typical, maturing Bollinger flavors of coffee and toffee but lovely ripe acidity gives the wine terrific freshness and superb cut. Full, creamy and complex. A superb R.D. from a great vintage.