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Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

Bollinger’s 2008 R.D. is a powerful, vinous Champagne. Apricot, dried pear, tangerine oil, hazelnut, dried flowers, chamomile and brioche all race across the palate. The 2008 boasts notable depth and textural intensity, with a feeling of phenolic, almost tannin-driven grip from the Pinot that propels the finish. At times the R.D. is quite exotic, even…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Meursault Porusots 1er Cru is taut and focused on the nose, tight at first, but then aeration reveals some lovely walnut and smoky aromas, and good mineralité tucked in just behind. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite concentrated and tensile, although it does not quite deliver the…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(45 hectoliters per hectare; aging in 30% new oak): Bright, pale yellow. Tight, lively scents of soft citrus fruits, nectarine and hazelnut plus a note of oak spice. Quite dry and classic on the palate, with its stone fruit and spice flavors supported by a firm mineral spine. No easy sweetness here! I particularly liked…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Meursault Village was tasted without the Clos de la Baron cuvée. The bouquet is very well defined and full of vigor, quite tensile and steely given the warmth of the growing season. The palate is pure and honeyed on the entry, and quite spicy, leading to a rounded, tropical-tinged finish with plenty of…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a completely different bouquet compared to the 2020. Intense brambly red fruit, black plum, a little earthiness, maybe less mineralite compared to the ‘19. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite fresh, more linear than expected. I wonder if this will close down for a few…