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Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

Things go up a notch or two with the 2010 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, which appears to hover on the palate with the grace of a ballerina. The Bienvenues is all about weightless elegance and implied structure, but it is all there in the glass. At times a bit intellectual, the Bienvenues is nevertheless immensely appealing. Layers of…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(bottled three weeks prior to my visit): Bright yellow. Subdued aromas of white peach, pineapple and white flowers lifted by spicy clove oil. At once elegant and penetrating, showing superb depth and building energy to its bracing citrus-dominated flavors. Nothing exotic about this beauty. Really leaves the taste buds vibrating. A great showing for this…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru has another engaging and quite complex bouquet—a mixture of yellow fruit, citrus peel, crushed stone and orange zest. It shows good vigor and is quite animated, plus it meliorates in the glass, gaining intensity and depth. The palate is well balanced with fine depth and tension. Maybe it just lacks…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, which comes from de Montille’s south-facing vineyards, is relatively early-picked. It has a tightly wound nose that has difficulty following the Chevalier-Montrachet (even though that was reduced!) The palate is well balanced with a harmonious entry, slightly waxy in texture as a Corton-Charlemagne should be, although it feels quite linear…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…