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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose combines plum, tobacco, tar, leather and game. Dense, rich and stuffed with flavor; shows a compelling subtle sweetness and a meaty component from the superripe merlot. But here, too, there no shortage of verve. Finishes with excellent length and sweet, ripe tannins. Very satisfying Graves.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Pape Clément put in a very fine showing, perhaps better than I expected. I had not tasted this for some 12 years. With an open and quite generous bouquet, this is well-defined and fresh with black fruit laced with humidor and damp loamy scents – much more classic in style than expected. The…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1981 Gruaud Larose is a bottle that I chose when proprietor Jean Merlaut invited me to pick a mature vintage. Though it is now a rather forgotten year, I have fond memories of the Gruaud Larose and I was intrigued to find out if it was still drinking well. The answer is yes. At…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Medium red with an amber rim. Aromatic bay leaf and clove overtones to the delicate blackcurrant aroma. Dense, juicy and clean on the palate, with spicy strawberry, tea leaf and mint flavors lifted by vibrant, almost tart acidity. Finishes persistent and rather easygoing; this is almost too light for a second growth, but then the…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a more backward, more fruit-driven bouquet when compared directly to the 2006 and 2007 with high-toned Morello cherry and raspberry confit scents, just a touch feistier than I expect. The palate is juicier and displays more body than the first two vintages. There is more presence and…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts blossoms with endless layers of dark fruit. This is a totally sensual, enveloping wine graced with finesse, class and elegance. The Malconsorts is a pretty open 2008, but it will be even better in another few years’ time.