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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an attractive sea cave/oyster shell nose that opens nicely with aeration; very well defined, with plenty of intense black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite “solid” and maybe rather brutish at the moment, though it should soften with time.

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(60% Mazoyères and 40% Charmes, combined when the wine goes into barrel): Bright medium red. Brambly aromas of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Tighter in the mouth than the premier crus here, showing less charm and early sweetness but noteworthy intensity and a firm shape. More minerals, dried flowers and earth than primary fruit. Charmes…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on September 12, four days prior to the Clos-de-Bèze. It offers more complexity and mineralité on the nose by comparison, featuring blackberry, raspberry and briar scents; rose petal and light bergamot notes emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannins on the entry. Quite sinewy for…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples, I just find it monotonous compared…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande was showing well until around five years ago, but I wonder, based on this ex-cellar bottle, tasted blind at the château, if it is on a slippery slope? Glossy on the nose, obviously very ripe with a little more VA than previous examples. I just find it monotonous compared to the wondrous…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 2003 Pichon-Lalande is a decent if not exceptional wine. I found it horrendously inconsistent just after bottling, swinging from excessively ripe to green within the space of two bottles; it has since settled down. The nose of black currant and crème de cassis is a little smudged but offers satisfying purity and not too…