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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good deep red. Flamboyantly expressive aromas of raspberry, currant, earth, smoked meat, chocolate and pepper. Fat, full and voluptuous yet somehow light on its feet. This has a texture of liquid velvet. Wonderfully opulent wine with considerable inner-palate flavor complexity: raspberry, game, leather, mocha and chocolate. Finishes with very fine-grained tannins that coat the entire…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is a fantastic wine that heralded the true return of the First Growth. This bottle came directly from the château’s cellars. Incredible delineation and focus on the nose, this is just so pure and charming with black fruit, graphite, melted tar, cedar and pressed rose petals. It is close to perfection….

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Château Margaux is consistently brilliant at the moment. This is the third bottle tasted in almost as many months. It has a vivacious bouquet with blackberry, tar and tobacco. It’s mineral-driven with a gorgeous wilted rose petal scent embroidered into the aromatic profile. The palate has an effortless quality all of its own,…