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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright ruby-red. Complex, perfumed aromas of blueberry, boysenberry, smoke, mocha, spices and cedar. Sweet and plush in the mouth, with an enticing floral element and a whiff of orange peel lifting the blueberry, coffee, camphor and spice flavors. Fine-grained, concentrated, minerally Pauillac with suave, fully buffered tannins and excellent length and lingering perfume. And…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Healthy ruby-red. Sappy aromas of black raspberry, black plum, leather, meat and smoke. Lush and velvety in the mouth, with lovely sweetness. On the soft side for the vintage, but finishes with persistent black cherry flavor and ripe tannins.

Past Becomes Now: Lafite-Rothschild 1874-1982 (Apr 2024)

The 1952 Lafite-Rothschild has a straight-laced nose, like many Left Bank wines this vintage, “correct” and perhaps to some, “unexciting”. I quite admire its reserve and classicism. Dried rose petals and sandalwood mixed with raspberry unfold with aeration. The palate is well balanced, with a graceful build in the mouth and a hint of allspice…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2009 Flaccianello is gorgeous, but the relative shortcomings of the year relative to the sublime 2010 are apparent when the wines are tasted side by side. Firm tannins support a core of dark red fruit, smoke and crushed flowers. Readers will need to give the 2009 time to settle down, but it is unquestionably…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Mouton Rothschild has a magnificent bouquet that gradually unfolds in the glass to reveal blackberry, iodine, touches of crushed violet and then, with time, that gorgeous mintiness, just like you get in the 1945 (not that this is the 1945). The palate is beautifully balanced with a lattice of fine, succulent tannins, pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Mouton-Rothschild is more backward on the nose, graphite and pencil shavings infusing the black fruit, broody at first yet gaining intensity in the glass with each swirl. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, fine depth, lightly spiced with a vibrant, slightly peppery finish. Impressive weight and length and unequivocally, a long-term…