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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Pale, bright yellow. Alluring high-pitched perfume of lime blossom, white peach, flowers and lavender sea salt. Penetrating, gripping wine with a superb spine of acidity and minerality to its savory flavors of white peach, lemon and crushed stone. Displays a wonderfully light touch and a fine-grained texture but also powerful stony mineral spine for a…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Lafleur-Petrus is elegant, polished and wonderfully refined from start to finish. Everything just falls into place effortlessly. Aromatic, sculpted fruit gives the 2017 its sense of regal beauty and total finesse. Beautifully lifted and precise, it is framed by gentle, silky tannins. Small red berries, mint, blood orange, spice and licorice develop in…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 La Fleur-Pétrus has a very detailed and precise bouquet, retaining the mixture of red and black fruit that it showed out of barrel, developing that faint estuarine/brine scent that lends it personality as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, light spiced with…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Meursault Les Narvaux has a straightforward bouquet that does not quite translate the nobility of this, one of the best Village Crus in Meursault. The palate is well balanced but simple, underpinned by a fine bead of acidity but missing some personality and detail, especially on the finish.

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1996 Mouton-Rothschild is the high point of what in retrospect was an inconsistent decade for this First Growth. It has a very attractive, classic Pauillac bouquet: predominantly black fruit laced with cedar, freshly rolled tobacco and light graphite scents. It is not lavish, but tightly controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, though…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good bright ruby. Aromas of dark berries, truffle and game. Sweet and rather lush but a bit monolithic, even musclebound. Finishes with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and a repeating animal quality.