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Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 1975 Latour is a vintage that I have drunk several times, and, to be frank, I consider it a bit overrated by some fellow scribes. That’s not to imply it is a bad wine, far from it. It’s still giving pleasure, and this represents the best example I have encountered, even better than a…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Chasse-Spleen offers attractive blackberry, briary, cedar and pinecone aromas on the Pauillac inspired nose. Good intensity here. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a fine bead of acidity with another graphite-infused, quite sharp finish. Very fine. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Saturated, bright ruby. Typically sexy, flamboyantly rich aromas of dark berries, candied cherry, smoke and sweet pipe tobacco. Sweet, lush and deep, showing good clarity and lift to its raspberry, black cherry and tobacco flavors. Finishes with mounting, somewhat harsh tannins. I am a huge fan of Chasse-Spleen (the 1962 is a marvel, for instance)…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1996 Talbot comes from an era when I think this Saint-Julien lost its way a little. It was picked from 16 September until 12 October with intermittent breaks to avoid showers. It has a relatively light bouquet with tertiary black fruit, cedar and incense, gaining a little vigour with aeration although it never fully…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

Bollinger’s 2007 Brut La Grande Année is quite pretty. Elegant, restrained and understated in style, the 2007 is one of the more delicate young Grande Années I can remember tasting. Mid-weight structure and silky texture only reinforce that impression. Lemon oil, red berry, dried flowers and chamomile open up nicely, but it is the wine’s…