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2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Margaux is beautifully polished and suave in the glass, with pliant fruit and plenty of finesse, all in a classic, mid-weight Margaux style. Inward and tightly wound, the 2012 is clearly holding back much of its potential. The 2012 has a stony, mineral-infused energy that is going to require at least a few…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(87% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot; 34% of the total crop): Dark ruby-red. Refined aromas of fresh blackcurrant, spices, dry herbs and cedar on the very classic nose. Enters fresh and lively, showing spicy black fruit, green coffee bean and herb flavors. The long finish features smooth tannins but…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2002 Salon is in an ideal spot for drinking now. What a wine. The 2002 captures all the natural radiance of this benchmark vintage in its rich, sumptuous personality. All the elements are so well balanced. Apricot, yellow flowers, tropical fruit, menthol and spice are all amplified. It’s a total stunner. Dosage is under…

All Change: New Zealand Reds (Apr 2023)

The 2020 Pinot Noir is a mouthful, combining ripeness and fruit concentration with the cool climate tension of the Waipara Valley. It is currently a baby, all young fruit, smoky bacon-like characters and dried herbs from a portion of whole clusters in the ferment giving it savory, gusty richness. There’s plenty of fruit weight here…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

From a vintage with tiny yields that produced just about four barrels of wine, the 2012 Montrachet possesses explosive energy, density and pure power. Readers lucky enough to own the 2012 need to be exceedingly patient, as it is embryonic nowhere near ready to drink. Tasted at the DRC Montrachet charity event in New York.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full yellow-gold. Multifaceted, terroir-driven nose and palate combine lemon zest, hay, honey, medicinal herbs and menthol. Thick, rich and deep yet somehow taut, showing terrific sappiness and concentration intensified by a medicinal herb element that reminded me of B&B. Much more about soil character than primary fruit. Finishes with a honeycomb note and yet this…