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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2012 Latour…wine of the vintage? It has to be a serious contender. In this blind taste-off between the five First Growths, its quality shines through. With exceptional delineation on the nose, it just oozes class with precise black fruit, crushed stone, mint and light sous-bois. The palate is perfectly balanced with a fine line…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

Frédéric Engerer thought the 2012 Latour had entered a period of post-bottling dormancy when I stopped by, so he chose to show a few older vintages instead, including the superb 2001 Latour. We will add those notes on a future update of the database.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pape Clément is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Now at 30 years of age, it has a deep core with a thin brick rim. The nose is classic in style with blackberry, cedar and sandalwood, just a touch of tobacco. This is very composed and refined, not powerful but…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(15% new oak): Medium red. Reticent, slightly musky nose offers redcurrant and cherry aromas complicated by mocha, earth, spices and pepper; not exactly high-pitched but much more vibrant than the Volnay villages. Can’t quite match the 2015 version for purity, but this wine boasts penetrating redcurrant sweetness with good acid cut and complicating salty minerality….

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The most remarkable thing about the 2002 Extra Brut R.D. is how tense and structured it is. Despite having been disgorged over two years ago, the 2002 is very much tightly wound. After several hours, the power and resonance of the vintage start to come through, along with the natural richness of Pinot from Aÿ….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; about 4 g/l dosage; disgorged on October 22, 2013): Light gold. Powerful, mineral-laced scents of orange zest, pear skin, iodine and chamomile, with a hint of anise in the background. On the palate, vibrant orchard and citrus fruit flavors unfurl slowly, picking up toasty lees and mace nuances that…