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Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(the estate made a Vieilles Vignes bottling in 1995 but there was no remaining stock): Good moderately saturated medium red, if a bit less lucid than the preceding vintages. Sexy aromas of red berries, mocha and musky forest floor, with higher-pitched cherry and rose petal notes emerging with air. Solid, sappy and seamless, conveying a…

Vinous Table: Noble Rot – Mayfair, London, UK (Jun 2023)

The 1949 Yquem is a vintage that I have not encountered. I will quote the official château website, which gives a succinct overview of the vintage… “This year had record temperatures as well as drought conditions that caused the biggest forest fire France has ever known. Showers in May and June limited water stress, and…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

This bottle of 1967 Climens was served blind by Bérénice Lurton at the château. It is unquestionably the best bottle that I have encountered. Brilliant delineation on the nose with irresistible scents of orange pith, Japanese yuzu and those Portuguese Pastéis de Nata that I remarked on last time. Fresh and vibrant on the palate…

Cellar Favorite: 1967 Climens (Feb 2022)

The 1967 Climens, which apparently contains 84g/L residual sugar, is a crystalline beauty. Glistening in the glass, it is like a golden beacon that lights up the table. The bouquet is fabulous with razor-sharp delineation and palpable energy, scents of tangerine, acacia honey, Portuguese Pastéis de Nata and barley sugar. The palate is intense, extraordinarily…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

This bottle of 1961 Coutet was bottled in the UK by Charles Kinloch & Co. What a lovely mature Barsac. Marmalade and quince scents unfold on the nose, nothing complex and perhaps missing a little botrytis, yet very pure. That comes across on a palate that is likewise balanced and fresh. Like many 1961 Sauternes,…

Come On Aline: Château Coutet 1943-2017 (Feb 2024)

The magnum of 1975 Coutet was poured at my own infamous birthday party at The Ledbury. It has a vibrant, citrus-driven nose with hints of mango and quince developing with time in glass. The palate is bestowed with a touch of spice and dried pineapple on the entry, fanning out beautifully with a crisp, dried…