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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Pichon-Lalande has an attractive bouquet of raspberry, wild strawberry and light floral scents, although it is missing the mineralité and terroir expression of the best vintages (including the 2016 that I tasted alongside). The palate is rounded on the entry, with supple tannin, gentle grip and a note of licorice infusing the red…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Medium red. Aromatic nose of redcurrant, plum, tobacco, tar, toast and incense, with a faint weedy component. Silky on entry, then round in the mouth, but with limited sweetness and expansion of flavor. Not especially pliant today despite the relatively high 47% merlot component. Finishes with slightly dry-edged tannins. Not at the same level as…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 1994 Lafite-Rothschild is served from a large format whisked straight from the château. Perhaps that goes some way to explain the impressive showing. Very youthful in hue, it has a captivating bouquet with black fruit infused with cedar and melted tar, kind of old school but in a positive way. The palate is medium-bodied…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Guiraud sports a fragrant but not intense nose, featuring the lanolin and apricot notes that I observed previously; touches of grilled walnut surface with time. The lightly spiced palate is very well balanced with a honeyed opening and ginger-infused quince and marmalade flavors. It builds nicely on the finish without fully letting rip….

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium golden yellow color. Knockout nose combines pineapple, yellow plum, marzipan, roasted herbs and resiny oak. Superconcentrated, chewy and stylish, with flavors of honey, pineapple, marzipan, vanilla, toffee and spicy oak framed and intensified by bright acidity. Impressively dense, saline wine with a very firm spine and considerable aging potential.

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Flamboyant yet classy aromas and flavors of raspberry, mocha, coffee and herbs. Like liquid velvet in the mouth, but with great lift and perfume giving the wine outstanding inner-palate verve. Wonderfully rich and classically dry Cheval with noble tannins, strong mineral energy and great lingering aromatic character. Atypically full and approachable for young…