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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1986 Cos d’Estournel replicates the performance from my 30-year on tasting that I conducted a few months back. The bouquet is attractive with mint and juniper berries that grab the attention of the olfactory senses, later accompanied by liquorice and graphite. The palate is understated on the entry but then builds in the mouth…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good red-ruby color. Very ripe aromas of redcurrant and smoke. Dense and sweet but a tad rustic, with flavors of roasted dark fruits, chocolate and menthol. Offers a smooth texture, ripe acidity and sneaky length, but could use more precision of flavor and thrust.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2003 Grand-Puy-Lacoste, picked at 38hl/ha, has a lovely nose with scents of fireside hearth, black truffle and black pepper, plus plenty of open-knit black fruit underneath. The palate is medium-bodied and plush with supple tannins. Menthol notes render this a medicinal Pauillac, and in a sense, this trait occludes some of the terroir expression….

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a little mustiness on the nose. It’s tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, a success considering the vintage. White pepper and clove notes are pretty grippy, with touches of cooked meat becoming spicier towards the finish. A…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Grand Puy Lacoste initially shows a slight mustiness on the nose. It’s very tertiary, with gravel and vestiges of black fruit. A second bottle is much fresher and more vibrant, which is a success considering the vintage. Shows white pepper and clove. It’s grippy, with touches of cooked meat, becoming spicier towards the…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Denis Durantou’s 2015 La Chenade is just as delicious from bottle as it was from barrel. The 20% Cabernet Franc gives the flavors lift and nuance to play off the bright red berry fruit. Hints of tobacco, mint, crushed flowers, licorice and spices add lovely shades of nuance. I very much like the energy and…