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Vinous Table: Kitchen W8, London, UK (Mar 2023)

We started with a pre-prandial 2005 Rosé Comtes de Champagne from Taittinger. This was ridiculously fine. Quite deep and almost Burgundian on the nose, it is vibrant and beautifully defined, with red cherries, bergamot and crushed stones in the background. Likewise, the palate has more weight and depth than other Rosés, with dark cherries and…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1984 Yquem is a rare case of an unsuccessful Yquem due to a cold and wet summer with intermittent rain during picking. From a half-bottle, the same stash as the 1980, it has a rather enervated bouquet, whilst the palate has sharp acidity and stumbles across the finish line in simple fashion. Drink soon….

Priceless: Roumier Bonnes-Mares 1945 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1996 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a little subdued on the nose and does not quite convey the same complexity as the 1998 by direct comparison. Dark and broody, this feels aloof and distant. It is much better on the palate with an almost rigid tannic backbone, sturdy and grippy in the mouth, although you…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Excellent red-ruby color. Multifaceted nose hints at dried rose, raspberry, cherry, white pepper and minerals. Dense and thick in the mouth; conveys an impression of lushness in spite of its strong backbone and firm acidity. Finishes with terrific grip and length, with tannins buffered by fruit. This will develop in bottle for many years but…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Potensac has an attractive bouquet with blackberry, melted tar, black tea and graphite scents. Nicely defined it maybe a little conservative given the growing season. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, crisp acidity. Classic in style with fine graphite and cedar notes towards the finish. Enjoy this now and over the next…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 48% merlot, 38% cabernet sauvignon and 14% cabernet franc; 13.9% alcohol; ph 3.58, IPT 71; 30% new oak) Dark purple-tinged ruby. Initially reticent nose opens with air to reveal cabernet franc-driven strawberry, violet, cocoa and mineral aromas. Then broad and chunky in the mouth, with red berry and black cherry flavors complicated…