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Digging up a Languedoc Treasure: Mas de Daumas Gassac 1978-2022 (Jul 2024)

The 1985 Rouge is totally seductive. Dried black fruits, tobacco, balsamic notes and leathery nuances rise up from the glass. Balanced by refreshing acidity and framed by smooth tannins, the 1985 showcases vivid intensity on the medium-bodied palate before concluding with an alluring finish. Kudos to the Guibert family for crafting this ravishing beauty.

Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

One of the clear highlights of the night, the 1961 Haut-Brion races across the palate with remarkable opulence and power for a wine of its age. Layers of fruit build to a crescendo of pure pleasure, with hints of licorice, menthol, lavender, sage, cedar and leather that linger on the finish. In virtually any tasting…

Vinous Table: SO|LA, London, UK (Jun 2021)

The first of two reds was the legendary 1961 Haut-Brion. I took over cork-pulling duties and managed to gently ease it out with a waiter’s friend. (I’m a dab hand; it’s all about patience and measuring the pressure of the cork as it is extracted.) Deep in color, this showed a little funk on the…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1962 Château Margaux is a vintage I’ve only met once. It shows considerable signs of age and has a light and slightly enervated nose with leather and cedar usurping the fruit. The palate is medium-bodied but does not hold a touch of fellow First Growths and attenuated towards a rather mushroomy finish. Alas, this…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Red-ruby. Deep, superripe aromas of redcurrant, minerals, humus and licorice, along with an intriguing vegetal/spicy aspect. Large-scaled, chewy and sweet, but not at all thick or overly sweet; a muscular, powerful wine with a multilayered texture and strong soil character. Finishes with substantial but thoroughly ripe tannins. Very youthfully unevolved. Also tasted: Chambolle-Musigny.

Cellar Favorite: 1969 Bodegas Vega Sicilia Unico (Jan 2024)

It was the first time that I had tasted the 1969 Unico, a blend of 85% Tinto Fino, 5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, Malbec and Albillo. There is a sense of delicacy on the nose that marks it out from the 1970. Slightly faded red fruit mixes with licorice and star anise. The 1969 coheres…