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Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Les Lys 1er Cru comes from a single-hectare with an anomalous north/northwest exposure that means it is usually later-ripening. It has quite an austere bouquet with touches of nettle and wet pavement, a bit “mean” compared to the Vaillons. The palate is well balanced with oyster shell and saline notes, very classically-styled;…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Ravera is a wine of real depth and vertical structure. As always, the Ravera is a taut, nervy Barolo built on energy more than volume. Readers will have to be patient, as the Ravera is likely to require a number of years to be at its most expressive. Even in the early…

The Enigma of 2018 Barolo (Feb 2022)

The 2018 Barolo Lazzarito is tense, vibrant and very much closed in on itself. Searing tannins and Serralunga structure dominate today. Crushed rocks, gravel, red fruit, rose petal, lavender and sage all run though this sculpted, vibrant Serralunga Barolo. What stands out most about the Lazzarito today is that is stylistically more similar to the…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet La Grande Montagne 1er Cru sports a slightly heavy-handed reduction on the nose that initially obscures the fruit and terroir; this does alleviate a little with aeration, though not enough for my liking. The fresh, virile palate is well balanced with pointed acidity and a fine saline finish that beckons you back…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet La Grande Montagne 1er Cru sports a slightly heavy-handed reduction on the nose that initially obscures the fruit and terroir; this does alleviate a little with aeration, though not enough for my liking. The fresh, virile palate is well balanced with pointed acidity and a fine saline finish that beckons you back…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets 1er Cru sports a very slight reduction on the nose, although nothing serious. Crisp and precise, it offers orange pith and freshly sliced pear and a touch of smoke. The palate is also reduced on the entry, delivering good density and weight, and a little chewy in texture. The finish…