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Vertical Tasting of Château Magdelaine (Mar 2012)

(95% merlot and 5%cabernet franc; 3.55 pH; 53 IPT 53; 13.4% alcohol): Very deep ruby-red with the barest hint of amber at the rim. Rich, deep, utterly captivating aromas of black cherry, red plum and cocoa, complicated by a hint of vanilla and a lovely spicy calcaire freshness. Very dense, rich and lush on the…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good medium ruby. Complex, pure aromas of bitter cherry, raspberry, iron and graphite. Smooth and consistent in the mouth, with fresh bitter cherry flavor over a firm minerally spine. Tannins are even and ripe, and the subtle finishing red berry and mineral flavors build nicely. This has the structure to develop slowly in bottle. A…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Straw-gold. Marzipan, honey and toasted hazelnut on the nose. Moderately viscous and currently rather oaky. Has an impressively chewy texture but is not yet displaying its personality. Finishes with some youthful harshness. The ’97 is at once stronger and finer.

Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 1983 Petrus is a vintage that I have only encountered on one or two occasions. It has an easygoing nose with leather and game, perhaps a little dustiness that detracts from its definition. It is not fatigued but you could say that the batteries are down to a single bar. The palate is balanced…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Petrus is a vintage I have only encountered a couple of times. This is unquestionably the best I have experienced, blind no less. The bouquet springs from the glass, autumn bonfire scents intertwined with black truffle and leather, more fruit than I remember on the previous bottle. Perhaps the palate just misses a…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2016 Lynch-Bages is primal but concentrated on the nose with blueberry and crushed violet scents. This is powerful, sensual and utterly glorious. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, assertive and structured yet retaining ample freshness. There is a subtle marine note that comes through on the finish. One of the most profound releases…