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The Glorious 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2018)

(tasted from a 375-milliter bottle): Very bright red with ruby tones; looks like a young wine. Deep, dark red and black fruit aromas are complicated by cinnamon, black pepper, roast coffee and a hint of truffley underbrush. Wonderfully rich but classy and reserved, and not a bit heavy. Utterly silky, plush, energetic wine with a…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Richebourg towers on the palate with huge tannins and almost a severe expression of structure. There is gorgeous depth and brightness in the fruit, but the tannins are searing in their intensity. Still, there is a crystalline purity to the flavors here that is totally compelling. I can’t imagine the 2012 drinking well…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Bright dark red with ruby highlights. Pure, multidimensional nose combines raspberry, licorice, mint, menthol, rose petal and crushed rock. Boasts compelling concentration and sappy tension, showing superb thickness in the context of this collection. A piquant note of blood orange perks up the fruit on the extremely long and subtle back end. More discreet than…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

(64% cabernet sauvignon, 29% merlot, 4% cabernet franc and 3% petit verdot): Bright medium red with an amber edge. Archetypal mature Gruaud-Larose aromas of truffle, smoked beef, earth, cedar, and tobacco complicate red cherry on the expressive. Fresh and juicy in the mouth, with a graceful quality to the red cherry, spicecake, orange rind and…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1983 Gruaud Larose is a vintage I have enjoyed several times. It has a delectable bouquet of dark red berry fruit, redcurrant and a touch of pomegranate, with subtle notes of cedar, tobacco and a touch of black tea. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that lend it a very good structure. There…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1998 Magdelaine came from an ex-cellar magnum, and what a splendid wine it is! Even at 20 years of age, it is a youthful Saint-Émilion that is only beginning to open up. The bouquet instantly blossoms from the glass, offering crushed strawberry, raspberry preserve and hints of blue fruit, perhaps the most precocious nose…