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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Full ruby. Black raspberry, mocha, minerals, graphite and nutty oak on the superripe nose. Extravagantly rich and sweet in the mouth without coming off as heavy. This boasts extraordinary fruit intensity and verve (it’s hard to imagine cabernet franc better than this), and finishes with great palate-staining persistence. But this powerfully tannic wine may already…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées contains one-third whole bunch fruit and is matured in 25% new oak. Nicolas Groffier mentioned that it was hard to taste in November and it has since changed now in bottle. It has a light, pure, floral bouquet with discrete oyster shell scents that develop with aeration. The palate is…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(Groffier vinified with 50% whole clusters but says he did no extraction; aged in 25% new oak): Bright medium red. Lively scents of black raspberry and menthol lifted by a violet topnote. Suave, pure, balanced village wine with perfumed blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors; shows modest flesh and depth but this is silky and delicious…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Chambolle-Musigny Les Hauts-Doix 1er Cru has an extremely pure and sensual bouquet with perfumed red cherries, crushed strawberry and vanillary scents from the new oak that needs a few more months to be fully subsumed. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and a fine bead of acidity. It is not the most…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from vines averaging about 47 years of age; vinified with 50% whole clusters and aged in one-third new oak): Healthy medium red. More red than black on the nose, with its red raspberry, red cherry, brown spice and coffee flavors complicated by lightly reductive notes of smoky minerals and leather. Supple on entry, then tighter…

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Amore e Magia is more backward and darkly intense than usual. Black currants, cherry, smoky minerals, incense and savory herbs all come together to form a beguiling display. It’s velvety in texture with a display of polished purple-tinged fruits, which travels across the palate with admirable density, leaving minerals and…