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2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(this has been in a stainless steel tank since September) Bright saturated ruby. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, pepper and spices, with a hint of exotic fruits. Silky and seamless but also primary and precise, with a great lightness of touch. Utterly spherical wine, like Romanee-Conti to the basic bottling’s La Tache. Wonderfully subtle and…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Pontet Canet was when Alfred Tesseron applied biodynamics on the Merlot for the first time. It has a lifted, red berry, blood orange and graphite-scented nose that is nicely focused, perhaps just a little rustic around the edges. The palate is medium-bodied with a minty opening, fine depth and crisp tannins. It’s grippy…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is very possibly the wine of the vintage. Vertical and explosive, the 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and dynamic energy to burn. The 2021 is a heady, racy wine that captivates all the senses. Tobacco, mocha, cedar, leather, dried herbs, menthol, licorice and plum saturate the palate in a wine that…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was one of the best wines of the vintage when I tasted from barrel. This contains 49% whole-bunch (a slightly higher figure than Guillaume Pouthier gave me during en primeur). The barrel-aging has what Pouthier called a “white toasting”, very light, so that you don’t smell the oak (70% new)….

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Les Carmes Haut-Brion includes 45% whole bunch, the same as the previous vintage with 70% new oak, 20% in new 1800-litre foudres and some in amphora. Interestingly, the whole bunch contribution is less evident here compared to the Le C des Carmes, more assimilated with touches of flint and graphite infusing the mineral-rich…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

Technical Director Olivier Pouthier crafted one of the wines of the vintage at Les Carmes Haut-Brion. The 2021 possesses mind-blowing intensity and stunning persistence. Bright red-fleshed fruit, blood orange, mint, dried flowers and exotic spice caress the senses as the 2021 shows off its sheer allure. I don’t think I have ever tasted a young…