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Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2018 I Sodi di San Niccolò is the most elegant Sodi I have ever tasted, and I have tasted them all. Sodi can be quite the bruiser in its youth, as the tannins are often imposing, but the 2018 is impressive because there is more than enough fruit to balance things out. Dark cherry,…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Figeac is a classy, supremely polished Saint-Émilion. Floral and savory notes meld into a core of dark cherry, leather, tobacco, spice, mocha and lavender. I imagine the 2021 will drink well with minimal cellaring. It’s an undeniably attractive wine with no hard edges, but also less textural depth than the best years. Managing…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Figeac was bottled the previous mid-July after being stored in vat for two months to gain more on the mid-palate. It has a sensual bouquet with pure wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, pencil box and tobacco scents that emanate from the Cabernet component. This seems to be a bit closed on the day….

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Figeac was picked from September 21 until October 19 and matured, as usual, in 100% new oak. It has a very pure, elegant bouquet, the Cabernet Sauvignon imparting subtle pencil lead notes, blackberry and briar, almost understated at first but gaining vigor with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Figeac is a super-classy, elegant Saint-Émilion. Silky tannins and lifted, savory aromatics add to a total impression of finesse. There is more Cabernet Sauvignon than typically in this year’s blend, which naturally brings added aromatic presence. The 2021 is not as explosive as recent vintages have been, but its class is evident. This…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from three climats picked and pressed separately. This has a well-defined, chalky bouquet that opens nicely in the glass. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, quite taut and saline with a touch of stem ginger on the finish. Fine.