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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Léoville Las-Cases came from a bottle that was recorked in 2017 at the property. The bouquet is rather muffled, and quite rustic and earthy in style, missing the breeding that Jean-Hubert Delon instills nowadays. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin. Rustic red fruit mixes with iron ore, orange peel, game and bacon…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Léoville Las Cases has been variable over a dozen-plus bottles drunk over the years, although this is definitely one of the better examples. The floral bouquet is much more expressive and endearing, with mainly red fruit mixed with ferrous notes and a touch of mulch. Fine definition but I would say the aromatics…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

This bottle of 1989 Léoville Las Cases is the second encountered within four months and is easily the best showing. It has a beautiful bouquet with a touch of menthol on the nose, leaning towards Pauillac with its vivacious cassis fruit. There’s little of the ferrous note from the previous bottle. The palate is medium-bodied…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1986 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that has cropped up several times at various dinners, and after the splendid 1982, it vied with the 1989 as the best of the decade. A magnificent-looking imperial is poured at Zoldering in Amsterdam. This indicates that a proportion of the fruit has faded in recent years, rendering…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1986 Talbot has a strong reputation although my solitary encounter back in 2001 seems contrary. Fortunately this bottle upholds this as being one of the finest Talbots in recent years, one in which the château recorded a record in terms of quantity. It has a beautiful, quite beguiling, classically styled bouquet with wild strawberry,…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella is an elegant beauty, with cooling herbal tones and cloves embellishing baked cherries and hints of incense. This opens with a lovely inner sweetness, its ripe red and black fruits energized by vibrant acidity. Violet florals and suggestions of cocoa swirl throughout. The 2010 finishes long—still slightly tannic yet coming…