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Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1986 Cos d’Estournel replicates the performance from my 30-year on tasting that I conducted a few months back. The bouquet is attractive with mint and juniper berries that grab the attention of the olfactory senses, later accompanied by liquorice and graphite. The palate is understated on the entry but then builds in the mouth…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

Battle Royale! Bordeaux 1961, 1982, 1990 & 1995

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou is a vintage that has been variable over the years and this example merely adds to the bottle-to-bottle inconsistency. It starts promisingly with quite a mineral-driven bouquet, more intensity than the ’82 Beychevelle, plenty of black fruit mixed with undergrowth and leather, a touch of chlorophyll too. The palate is medium-bodied and…

Vinous Table: Rusty Staub Charity Dinner, New York (Dec 2015)

Vega-Sicilia’s 1990 Unico (magnum) is off the charts. Powerful yet also sensual, the 1990 impresses for its depth and allure. A host of dark red cherry, plum and smoke nuanced finish support the veins of underlying acidity that give the wine its freshness and tension, while the explosive finish leaves everyone speechless. Until the 1982…

The Best of Rioja and Ribera del Duero (Nov 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Explosive, warm aromas of redcurrant, black plum, chestnut, tobacco and spice; mellow oak notes. Lush, dense and solidly structured; shows a distinctly more mineral character than the Valbuena and less pliant, drier flavors. Sound acidity contributes to the impression of backbone and thrust. Finishes with slightly dry tannins.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1988 Yquem is similar to the bottle I tasted two years earlier, one of my favorite vintages from that decade. Orange pith, quince, wax resin, and mandarin blossom on the nose, yet there is more control and focus than in other warmer vintages. The palate is underpinned by a wonderful frisson of acidity that…