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1999 Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2002)

($48.50) Pale color. Cool, perfumed aromas of lemon ice, licorice, and spicy, vanillin oak. Tightly wound, even lean, yet one senses the density of material beneath the wine new oak component. Very firmly built and stylish but a bit youthfully edgy today. Finishes with late notes of vanilla and honey.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Climens is a good Barsac but not my favorite Climens. At 20 years old it has a rather punchy, attacking bouquet that is missing the composure of the best vintages. The palate is marked by a sharp thread of acidity that unbalances the wine overall, and it seems to run out of ideas…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Good medium red. Plum, redcurrant, tobacco and a whiff of camphor on the nose, with a faint green quality building with air. Lush and supple, showing the slightly horsey, leathery quality typical of this property’s wine. Nicely light on its feet, though. Finishes slightly dry, with a fine dusting of tannins.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Gruaud Larose has a rather conservative bouquet with earthy red berry fruit, cedar and bay leaf aromas. Like previous bottles there is something almost Saint-Estèphe-like about the aromatics. The palate is medium-bodied with light tannins, plenty of brown spices here with a rather forward, open-knit finish that suggests this is not a long-term…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2008 Gruaud Larose has a nose similar to the previous bottle, with tobacco and bay leaf mixed with cedar scents, as I mentioned before, almost Saint-Estèphe in character. The palate is medium-bodied with firmer, more rigid tannins than before, though well balanced with a dash of white pepper. There’s just a bit more grip…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright, deep ruby. Sappy aromas of blackberry, violet and espresso. Slightly medicinal but sweet flavors of boysenberry and blackberry. Has a firm spine. This will ultimately merit a score at the higher end of my range if the slightly gritty tannins are refined during elevage Under the direction of Alain Raynaud, the new American owners…