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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Lafleur is raised in 30% new oak, the rest, for the first time, used at Grand Village for 8 months to reduce the oak influence and season the barrel. (In fact, Jacques Guinaudeau did this in the past). It was bottled in April 2022 after two months settling in large stainless-steel. It has…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Lafleur takes all the elements of this site and dials them up. All of the natural richness and textural intensity of the year comes through in a decidedly flamboyant, opulent Lafleur. It’s an immediate Lafleur, that much is obvious. I imagine the classic Lafleur bouquet will develop in bottle, as aeration starts to…

Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Lafleur has a bouquet that takes its time to unfurl in the glass, then renders you speechless. Mind-bogglingly intense black fruit, crushed stone and a hint of licorice display astonishing delineation, and blue fruit emerges with time. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins. As is customary, this feels very strict and,…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

I am not sure when the 2019 Lafleur is going to be ready to drink, but it is not going to be anytime soon. A huge, powerful wine, the 2019 Lafleur possesses tremendous intensity and energy, but less of the immediate charm of many recent vintages. All of its energy is focused inward. Hints of…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Lafleur has a more fruit-driven bouquet, perhaps a little less cerebral than its peers in this flight. Mulberry intermixed with pencil box and undergrowth. With aeration, thankfully, it does gain more nuance and complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, symmetrical, quite austere with Early Grey, bay leaf and clove, superb crescendo…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright saturated red. Deep, pure aromas of raspberry, licorice and minerals; a whiff of white pepper and aromatic herbs emerges with air. Sweet, dense, chewy and powerful, offering superb depth and nuance to the rich red cherry, licorice and potpourri flavors. Tactile, serious and extremely long on the fine-grained, lifted finish. Yet another great wine from Fuligni, and…