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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good full medium ruby. Subdued, slightly roasted nose combines cassis, cherry and chocolate mint. Chocolatey-sweet but less deep and expressive than the ’02 and ’01. Offers good currant and cherry flavors but seems a bit dry-edged and medicinal for a 2000, without quite the harmony of components of the subsequent vintages here.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Poyferré has a lovely bouquet of brambly red berry fruit, orange peel, sandalwood, ash and a touch of peppermint. Maybe there is just a tiny smidgen of brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied and approaching full maturity, with grainy tannins, meat juices, sage, thyme and light white peppery notes surfacing with aeration. There…

Léoville-Poyferré 1936-2018 (Sep 2022)

The 2000 Léoville-Poyferré was poured blind at Medlar restaurant, though it was pretty easy to single out. This bottle is slightly higher-toned than the previous, black fruit, melted tar and a touch of roasted chestnut, maybe displaying just a touch more Brettanomyces. The palate is medium-bodied with good depth and concentration, white pepper and thyme…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Medium yellow-gold. Flamboyantly ripe, complex nose combines pineapple, apricot, toffee, clove and vanilla. Hugely sweet and rich, with deep, powerful flavors of honey, marzipan and toffee. A major mouthful of wine, with great lingering sweetness. Today, this makes the Rieussec seem almost polite by comparison.

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Suduiraut has a very well-defined bouquet of marmalade, honeysuckle, touches of kerosene and pine, all focused and vigorous. The palate is balanced with a fine bead of acidity, fresh and vibrant, featuring Seville orange marmalade mixed with orange peel, peach and wild honey; it displays a little more delineation than I have noticed…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1999 Climens just misses a bit of definition on the nose, lacks a bit of spark compared to the superior 2001. Beeswax, lanolin and saffron, it just needs more lift. The palate has moderate depth, slightly bitter on the mid-palate with a finish that quotes my previous note, seems to just “run out of…