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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2008 Lynch-Bages is deep in color with minor aging on the rim. The nose is well-defined but demands coaxing, almost reluctantly revealing blackberry, briary, tobacco and mint aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm but fine tannins, lovely black fruit laced with tobacco and spice, dense and grippy. This is beautifully proportioned on the…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1982 Ducru-Beaucaillou can be a stupendous wine…or it can leave you scratching your head. On the nose, this bottle shows a little more brettanomyces than others that I have tasted, though it dissipates with aeration to reveal blackberry, mint and light herbal notes. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit, a little chewy…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Slightly musty aromas of currant and cigar box. Fat and full, but with an intrusive dry edge suppressing the wine fruit and verve and repeating on the finish. I’ve had a couple of better bottles of this wine, but it apparent that the cellar pollution problems that plagued this chateau between 1985 and…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

A wine of restraint and sensuality, the 2014 Harlan Estate is wonderfully transparent in feel. Time in the glass brings out a compelling interplay of beautifully layered fruit and lifted aromatics. The 2014 is one of the most understated yet energetic young vintages of Harlan Estate I can remember tasting. Readers who have not tasted…

2003 Barolo: Ten Years Later (Jun 2014)

La Spinetta’s 2003 Barolo Campè is a pretty wine to drink now and over the next 5-10 years, but probably on the shorter end of that window. Worn in leather, mocha, spices, smoke, plums and earthiness meld together nicely in the glass. The 80% new oak is totally integrated, while the tannins are also soft,…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(15% alcohol) Impressive red-ruby color. Aromas of black raspberry, menthol, mint and caramel, with a whiff of roasted fruits in the deep background. Lush, sweet, broad and a bit closed, with less cut and life than the ’04. Finishes with some alcoholic warmth and huge tannins that coat the incisors.