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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

Vinous Table: La Trompette, London, UK (Aug 2018)

The 1998 Pape Clément Rouge is a wine that I rounded on in my overview of 1998s although this bottle expresses less of that green trait I noticed before. It has an overtly sumptuous and decadent bouquet that smothers the terroir expression, although it develops purity with time. The palate is laden with rich black…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Good red-ruby. Highly aromatic nose combines plum, tobacco, tar, leather and game. Dense, rich and stuffed with flavor; shows a compelling subtle sweetness and a meaty component from the superripe merlot. But here, too, there no shortage of verve. Finishes with excellent length and sweet, ripe tannins. Very satisfying Graves.

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1998 Pape Clément put in a very fine showing, perhaps better than I expected. I had not tasted this for some 12 years. With an open and quite generous bouquet, this is well-defined and fresh with black fruit laced with humidor and damp loamy scents – much more classic in style than expected. The…

Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 1981 Gruaud Larose is a bottle that I chose when proprietor Jean Merlaut invited me to pick a mature vintage. Though it is now a rather forgotten year, I have fond memories of the Gruaud Larose and I was intrigued to find out if it was still drinking well. The answer is yes. At…