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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Haut-Brion remains one of the outstanding achievements of the decade, and it consistently flirts with perfection. I was fortunate to taste the wine three times over the space of six months, though this tasting note comes from a bottle poured at the château by Jean-Philippe Delmas – the first time I had ever…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Medium red. Highly nuanced, roasted aroma dominated by tobacco, grilled nuts, smoke and vanillin oak. Densely packed, but also juicy and penetrating, with great thrust and superb vinosity. A very powerful wine with a robust tannic structure. Finishes very long and strong. This and La Mission really transcend the vintage. Drink 2005 through 2030.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Masseto Retrospective at the Country Music Hall of Fame (Jan 2020)

The 2004 Masseto, one of my personal favorites, is positively stellar. I have always adored the 2004 for its silky tannins, stunning aromatic presence and total finesse, all of which are on display today. Beautifully pure to the long finish and profoundly beautiful in every way, the 2004 has it all. It was a textbook…

Vinous Table: Wilton’s, London, UK (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Côte-Rôtie La Landonne has a stunning nose with superb definition, scents of black plum, sloes, iodine and Provençal herbs (sage and wild fennel). It blossoms with aeration. The palate is framed by saturated tannins, layers of sweet black cherries mingling with kirsch, vanilla pod and Indian spices. Though plush, it develops more and…

A Tasting of the 1991 Northern Rhones (Nov 1998)

Deep ruby-red to the rim. Supersweet, exotic aromas of fruitcake, sweet butter, maple syrup and coconut. Extremely concentrated and thick, but quite backward today; still dominated by its structure. Strong notes of iron and brown spices from the darker soils. Finishes with palate saturating tannins and an exotic, roasted flavor that shows extraordinary persistence.