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Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Medium red with an amber rim. Aromatic bay leaf and clove overtones to the delicate blackcurrant aroma. Dense, juicy and clean on the palate, with spicy strawberry, tea leaf and mint flavors lifted by vibrant, almost tart acidity. Finishes persistent and rather easygoing; this is almost too light for a second growth, but then the…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru has a more backward, more fruit-driven bouquet when compared directly to the 2006 and 2007 with high-toned Morello cherry and raspberry confit scents, just a touch feistier than I expect. The palate is juicier and displays more body than the first two vintages. There is more presence and…

The 2009 Red Burgundies (May 2011)

The 2008 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts blossoms with endless layers of dark fruit. This is a totally sensual, enveloping wine graced with finesse, class and elegance. The Malconsorts is a pretty open 2008, but it will be even better in another few years’ time.

2008 Red Burgundies (Mar 2011)

Medium red. Knockout nose combines wild red berries, minerals and red licorice, lifted by ineffable notes of blood orange and rose petal. Very suave on entry, then intense and pure in the middle, at once taut and seamless. Superb energy to the raspberry, mineral and spice flavors. Downright thick for a 2008, saturating the entire…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru appears to be enduring an awkward adolescent phase. The aromatics feel a little disjointed, the fruit tucked away somewhere else leaving tealeaf, bay leaf and nagging vegetal notes in its place – atypical for the style of this vintage. Alex Seysses told me that they had some reduction…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts is shaping up to be a real beauty. Dark, sensual and expressive, the 2012 is wonderfully open today, which is quite surprising. As always, Malconsorts is defined by a textural feel of nearly indescribable finesse. There is plenty of that in the 2012.