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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is slightly deeper in colour than the Echézeaux. It is blessed with a stunning nose with white-tipped strawberry, crushed limestone, sea cave and a touch of sous-bois, complex and mercurial, shapeshifting in the glass. The palate is beautifully balanced with a slightly chalky texture, a little confit-like towards its…

Nature Rules/Nature’s Rules: DRC 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on September 23 and 24 at 21.6hL/ha, which is more than the Echézeaux. Initially, nosing the two aforementioned wines, they seem uncharacteristically neck-and-neck and with similar fruit profiles. Then, it opens with aeration, just eases down on the accelerator pedal, red berry fruit deepening and joined by scents…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Grands Echézeaux Grand Cru is laced with hints of kirsch, cedar, orange peel, mint and dried flowers. I find it a bit disjoined today, light and fleeting in feel, its direction more inward than outward. Time in the glass brings out lovely floral and savory aromatics, but the 2021 is not totally put…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Cheval Blanc has a savory bouquet with red fruit, black truffle shavings, Montecristo cigars and brown spices – very vibrant and focused. There is a tangible sense of energy here. The palate is medium-bodied, with grainy tannins and brown spices infusing the black fruit. Clove and more red fruit surface towards the finish,…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion was picked at 38hl/ha and matured in 80% new oak, 11% foudres and the remainder in clay amphorae. It has an intense bouquet of blackberry and wild strawberry, plus some light torrefactory scents, undergrowth and black pepper, all delineated and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with beautifully defined black fruit…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

The 2020 Les Carmes Haut-Brion is dazzling, but it is also a wine of reserve and understatement. I image it will be some years, at the very least, be fore the 2020 is ready to show all it has to offer. Today, it is not particularly expressive. The aromatics, which are usually so penetrating are…