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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2012 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru is fully mature on the nose, slightly earthy with light animal fur aromas. Fine lift. The palate is medium-bodied with a firm structure, impressive transparency and a slightly short, tart finish. But there is a breeziness to this Clos de Vougeot that is very seductive. Tasted…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.1% alcohol; 24 h/h; 9/22 harvest): Full medium red. Very rich, ripe aromas of dark cherry, plum and mocha, complicated by licorice and mint and a spiciness that builds with air; remains just this side of roasted. Displays terrific density and a captivating subtle sweetness on entry, then thick, rich and classically dry in the…

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

Brilliant ruby-red color. Musky, superrich, slightly roasted aromas of black raspberry, mint and tropical dark chocolate. Hugely sweet and creamy in the mouth, but with sound acidity and a vineyard-typical minty element giving shape and lift to the chewy cherry and raspberry fruit flavors. This very deep Clos Vougeot finishes with big but late-arriving tannins…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru has an attractive sea cave/oyster shell nose that opens nicely with aeration; very well defined, with plenty of intense black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, quite “solid” and maybe rather brutish at the moment, though it should soften with time.

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(60% Mazoyères and 40% Charmes, combined when the wine goes into barrel): Bright medium red. Brambly aromas of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Tighter in the mouth than the premier crus here, showing less charm and early sweetness but noteworthy intensity and a firm shape. More minerals, dried flowers and earth than primary fruit. Charmes…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru was picked on September 12, four days prior to the Clos-de-Bèze. It offers more complexity and mineralité on the nose by comparison, featuring blackberry, raspberry and briar scents; rose petal and light bergamot notes emerge with time. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet tannins on the entry. Quite sinewy for…