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The Picardy Third: 2016 DRC In Bottle (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 25 at 24hL/ha. As usual, I allowed it five or six minutes to open in the glass. It is a very subtle Romanée-Conti, more discreet than the 2016 La Tâche, but then you become entranced by its spellbinding purity and grace. It gradually builds aromatically, augmenting…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright red-ruby. A touch of reduction to the spectacularly complex aromas of black raspberry, mocha, game bird, earth and violet. Thick and sweet but utterly primary and barely hinting at the complexity to come. And yet this amazingly suave, silky wine already shows outstanding focus and spine, not to mention uncanny depth. Fleshier in the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Talbot is a vintage that I had not tasted for a long time. Now at 30-years old, it has a slightly paler colour compared to the 1988 Gruaud Larose with faint bricking on the rim. The bouquet is very attractive with bright soy-tinged red fruit, sandalwood, clove and a touch of antique bureau….

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2016 The Flight is gorgeous. Dark, brooding and closed in on itself, the 2016 is going to need a number of years to be at its very best, but it is incredibly beguiling today. Plum, black cherry, lavender, blood orange menthol, and a host of more mineral-driven notes punctuate this super-expressive wine. This is…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…