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Cellar Journal – Bordeaux to Start… (Jul 2018)

The 2004 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that I have not tasted since 2011. This example, from a half-bottle, shows a little under-ripeness compared to vintages of similar age, but the aromatics are redeemed by their freshness. Black fruit intermingle with tobacco and tar, just a hint of hickory and clove loitering in the background….

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a magical wine. The aromatics alone as mesmerizing. Mocha, dried flowers, herbs and a whole range of deeply-pitched spice notes soar out of the glass. Explosive, deep and so full of character, the Cos dazzles from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out hints of rose petal, cedar…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a vintage that I have encountered several times over the years. Here, as part of a 2005 horizontal of the top Bordeaux, it mirrors previous bottles. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, scorched earth, juniper and hints of leather. More backward that its peers and clearly requiring…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good ruby-red. Knockout nose combines currant, plum, minerals, licorice and graphite. Wonderfully sweet, rich and deep, but with near-perfect balancing acidity to frame the wine’s lush fruit. This superb 2005 has it all. Finishes with noble, sweet tannins and palate-saturating persistence. On my most recent visit, Prats told me he considered 2005 to be superior…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 82% cabernet sauvignon, 10% merlot and 8% cabernet franc; 74 IPT; 3.56 pH; 75% new oak; 13.7% alcohol) Deep ruby with purple highlights. Sexy, classic, captivating cabernet sauvignon aromas of blackcurrant, graphite and cedar complicated by minerals. Silky-sweet, fine-grained and almost gentle on entry, with well-integrated acidity contributing to an impression of…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Léoville Las Cases has a clean and precise bouquet, beautifully focused with blackberry, melted tar, cigar humidor and crushed stone aromas. It gains intensity with aeration without ever losing its precision. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a sense of abiding symmetry and detail as it fans…