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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion Blanc is very similar on the nose compared to the barrel tasting a year earlier, offering quite pungent scents of gooseberry, nettle, white flowers and lemon thyme, all well defined with moderate complexity. The palate is balanced with a grassy, malic entry, more so than in barrel. I appreciate the energy of…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Haut-Brion Blanc has blossomed beautifully over the last two years. Rich and ample in feel, with superb richness, the Blanc is a knock-out. Everything is dialed up in the 2018 – the aromas, flavors and textures are all so wonderfully expressive. Lemon confit, pear, marzipan, chamomile and gently spiced notes build as the…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Clerc Milon is a very pretty, mature Pauillac. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, game, incense and tobacco give the 2005 a feeling of maturity. The 2005 is in a very pretty spot right now to offer fine drinking, but I would not push my luck, as the edges are starting to fray.

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Full ruby-red. Superripe, almost syrupy aromas of cassis, licorice, graphite and coffee. Full, seamless and sweet, with a ripeness verging on exotic; but this is fat with fruit. An outsized Clerc-Milon with a relatively high 13.2% alcohol but also very good energy in the mouth. Finishes with terrific breadth and substantial ripe tannins. This was…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around 40% whole bunch. It has an intense, almost precocious bouquet of blueberries, dates, raspberry preserve and terra-cotta-like aromas. The medium-bodied palate features a sweet core of blue fruit. An almost nubile Bonnes-Mares with a luscious, sexy, saturated finish and great depth, if not the precision and tension of…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a lifted, perfumed and quite floral bouquet of brambly red fruit infused with wilted rose petal and a touch of blood orange. Gorgeous! The palate is medium-bodied with fine structure, a killer line of acidity and perhaps some discreet stem addition, as it is overtly peppery toward the finish….