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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good deep red. Pretty cassis and floral aromas. Silky, subtle and fresh, with sound acidity framing the pungent dark berry and lightly herbal flavors. Very nicely balanced wine with an elegant finish featuring suave tannins, an intriguing saline quality and subtle persistence.

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2009 Brane-Cantenac was picked from September 22 to October 9 with a modest 13.4° alcohol. This has long been a great Margaux. It is very delineated and yet very generous on the bravura bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, crushed stone, cedar and a touch of mint. The palate is fresh and bursting with energy right…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 53% cabernet sauvignon, 40% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 13.2% alcohol; ph 3.87; IPT 75; 37% selection) Aromas of spicy plum, stony minerals and herbs are currently a bit subdued. Suave and fine-grained, with a light touch to its rather wild flavors of blackcurrant, licorice, minerals and violet. Finishes with easygoing tannins…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru was tasted from a blend of five cuvées. It has an attractive bouquet of mainly black fruit laced with black tea and bay leaf notes, plus touches of rose petal in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, tending more toward a red…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that obscures the black cherry fruit underneath that veil. Powerful but not appealing and it deteriorates after 10 minutes. The palate is medium-bodied with dry, “furry “tannins and dark berry fruit. A slightly desiccated, high alcohol finish…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

(75% merlot and 25% cabernet franc): Good deep ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of cassis, violet and chocolate enlivened by fresh herbs. Wonderfully full for a second wine, with lovely mineral lift to the flavors of black fruits, menthol and chocolate. But not quite the nobility of tannins or length for 90 points.