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Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)

The 1988 Ausone shows extremely well after 31 years. It remains lucid in colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is clean, with so much fruit that it comes across more like a 1989 than a 1988. It sports none of the leanness or greenness one sometimes finds with Right Bank 1988s, just…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1988 Petrus is a vintage that I have encountered in two occasions. It is a forerunner for the 1989 and 1990 and frankly, it cannot hold a torch to those twin titans. In retrospect, one can see it more as a small progression from the capable 1987. It has a youthful hue with less…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1988 Petrus fooled me when served blind. Its opulence tricked me into thinking it was the Le Pin tasted alongside. This might be partly because this came from magnum. It has a gorgeous nose, more expressive than the bottle at the Petrus vertical, with veins of blue fruit and iodine, thyme and sous-bois. Quite…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good bright ruby-red. Bright, fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry and cherry; reminded me of Burgundy. At once juicy and chewy, with a restrained sweetness and firm but harmonious acidity. Plenty ripe in the context of the year, and very well balanced. Finishes with firm tannins and very good length.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium red-ruby. Black cherry, tar and oak spice on the nose. Lush and smooth, but with less clarity and density of flavor than the ’99. Not especially complex but demonstrates plenty of personality.

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Cool aromas of black cherry, tar and violet. Dense and sweet but juicy, with good snappy acids. I can’t think of a single California cabernet that can achieve this sort of thickness with potential alcohol below 12%, unless it Ridge Monte Bello. Slight edge of austerity. Mouthcoating finish hints at violet and mint….