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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru is two-thirds whole cluster. It has a well-defined, quite tertiary bouquet, the whole bunch quite expressive at the moment, imparting light black pepper and clove aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. Good density here, grippy and quite concentrated towards the finish. Just a touch of black…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has to address some reduction issues at first, although there is plenty of brambly red berry fruit, cranberry and pomegranate on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with very fine tannin and layers of red and black fruit infused with crushed stone and veins of blue fruit. There is…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright, dark red. Riper and more exotic today than the Chambertin, but with its aromas of dark fruits, spices and flowers a bit blocked by an element of exotic oak. Densely packed but extremely backward and imploded, and much harder to taste than the Chambertin, as the wine’s fruit and licorice flavors are suppressed in…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The bottle of 1989 Léoville-Barton is probably the best I have encountered over the years; indeed, it is better than a bottle opened by Lilian Barton-Sartorius when I visited the property a few weeks earlier. It has a comely old-school claret bouquet of red fruit infused with cedar and loamy scents, and maybe some dustiness,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Montrose is a magnificent wine and this represents one of the best bottles I have encountered – one that was purchased on release and not moved from Berry Brothers’ cellar since. I have encountered perfect bottles of the 1989, and this flirts with that magic figure. It is blessed with a captivating bouquet…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Montrose can flirt with perfection when it wants to. This bottle, poured blind, is not the best example I have tasted, partly because it displays just a soupcon of Brettanomyces on the nose. The aromatics have a lovely warmth, with blackberries, rosemary and pencil shavings. However, because of the Brett, I feel that…