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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lynch-Bages has a stunning bouquet with pixelated black fruit, crushed stone and graphite aromas that soar from the glass. This is just amazingly focused. The palate is medium-bodied with concentrated black fruit curiously tinged with cough candy, which here I find just a bit out of place. The acidity is extremely well judged…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Classic Pauillac aromas and flavors of cassis, black cherry, menthol, minerals and licorice lifted by a violet topnote. Intensely flavored and sharply delineated, with terrific fruit intensity to support its very bright acidity. This firmly structured, gripping wine is a bit dominated by its serious tannic spine today, but the dark berry fruit…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1986 Latour is a vintage that has constantly left me disappointed in context of the growing season and the performance of its peers such as Mouton-Rothschild or Léoville Las Cases. This last bottle did nothing to change my opinion. It just feels enervated on the nose, as if it cannot be bothered to offer…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

Though I have not been a huge fan of the 1986 Latour, this is undoubtedly the best bottle I have encountered. Deep and youthful, it offers black fruit and a strong stony/dusty element that clarifies with aeration, though it remains slightly disjointed. The palate is medium-bodied and solid with its gritty tannin. Firm with a…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Bahans Haut-Brion is the second wine from Haut-Brion, known today as Le Clarence. A huge, virile red, the 2005 exudes intensity from start to finish. Black cherry, plum, smoke, tobacco, gravel and cured meats blast across the palate. The wine’s richness, heft and power are truly remarkable. Today, the 2005 comes across as…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Sexy aromas of black raspberry, smoke and minerals. Fat, plush and seamless in the mouth, with a nicely restrained sweetness to the slowly mounting flavors of raspberry and smoke. The compelling ripeness and sweetness of fruit of the vintage come through loud and clear on the back end.