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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

Light on its feet and intensely aromatic, Dujac’s 1985 Clos La Roche is fabulous. A striking bouquet laced with the essence of sweet red cherry, tobacco, cedar and mint gives this super-refined, silky Burgundy much of its undeniable allure. At this stage, the 1985 is fully mature and peaking, but well-stored bottles will drink well…

Plundering Burgundy Past (Jul 2018)

The 1985 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a breathtaking bouquet with wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, hints of wild mint, brine and a touch of wild fennel. There is astonishing precision and focus in situ here. The palate has a balletic sense of balance that marries with the fruit intensity this growing season…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good ruby-red color. Expressive, pungent aromas of blueberry, raspberry, game and roasted nuts. Sweet and velvety yet still rather closed following the bottling. Lively acidity gives the wine a penetrating quality. Not quite as weighty as the ’96, but stylish and impeccably balanced.

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

(60% cabernet and 40% merlot): Full, deep red-ruby. Highly perfumed nose combines blackberry, licorice, menthol and medicinal herbs. Sweet, supple and fine-grained for a wine from this property, with strong primary dark berry and chocolate flavors complicated by nuances of herbs, tobacco leaf and leather. Plenty of supporting acidity to give clarity to the mid-palate….

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Deep purple-ruby. Initially muted on the nose, opening slowly to reveal hints of fresh blackcurrant and smoky sassafras. Then much sweeter and juicy in the mouth, with superripe blackberry, blueberry and mineral flavors. Finishes with sneaky concentration and good length, with youthfully aggressive tannins. I would have scored this even higher except for a nagging…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Grand-Puy Ducasse shows a small reduction at first, a slightly metallic note that fortunately ebbs away to reveal pleasant baked cherries, tobacco and light graphite aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin that feels a little drier than its peers. Slightly rustic in style with a conservative finish. Expected more. Tasted blind…