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Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Dom Pérignon Rosé is tremendous. Rich, creamy and ample, the 2009 impresses with its sheer radiance, the signature of the year. Kirsch, orange peel, mint, spice and cedar all build in the glass. Silky, plush contours wrap it all together. The 2009 is a pretty overt Rosé, but the energy and brightness of…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Good deep red. Slightly leafy aromas of currant, licorice and eucalyptus. Sweet, sexy flavors of currant, minerals and tobacco; comes across as more pliant than the 2002, with a suggestion of more merlot. But can’t quite match that wine for definition or grip.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Les Forts de Latour is one of many that I had not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old, it has a lovely, almost melted bouquet of black fruit laced with tar, cedar and pine, rose petal, occupying that liminal point between primary and secondary stages. The well-balanced palate offers a…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Bright gold with a strong mousse. Deep, complex displays smoky apple, peach pit, buttered toast and vanilla bean scents. Fleshy orchard fruit flavors are complemented by baking spices, floral honey and a hint of candied ginger. Deep, creamy, powerful and focused, with very good finishing lift and a lingering note of bitter pear skin. This…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2006 Cristal is a rich, explosive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of this warm year. Ample and full-bodied, the 2006 is one of the more extroverted recent Cristals. As such, it will drink well now, even though it has more than enough body to drink well for another 20 years or…

Vinous Table: Le Bistro de L’Hôtel de Beaune, Beaune, France (Apr 2019)

The bouquet is drop-dead gorgeous, lively and broad, and beautifully defined as always, offering scents of citrus fruit, toasted walnuts and a hint of brioche. The exquisitely balanced palate displays spine-tingling mineralité and real tension and grace. The long, quite deep finish makes me wonder whether this 2006 will meliorate with further bottle age. Should…