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South Africa: 2021 New Releases from the Cape (Nov 2021)

The 2018 Terrasse comes across surprisingly closed on the nose compared with the 2019, needing coaxing to reveal the pressed flower, wax resin and flinty aromas. The palate is fresh on the entry with flavors of tangerine peel and satsuma, and quite edgy thanks to the fine bead of acidity. Touches of praline appear toward…

Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020 (Nov 2021)

The 2017 Viré-Clessé, which will be bottled at the beginning of 2022, has a killer nose with an almost Germanic feel, intense nectarine, melon and damp earthy scents with just a hint of petrol. The palate is beautifully balanced with a line of acidity keeping everything taut and linear. The 2017 is a little waxy…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Raymond-Lafond has quite a deep golden/silvery color. The bouquet is rather waxy and honeyed, generous and well defined, though it does not quite deliver the complexity of the best 2015 Sauternes. The palate is balanced and slightly viscous on the entry, like some other Sauternes in this vintage, slightly Germanic in style with…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

Deceptively medium in body, the 2015 Raymond-Lafon offers striking depth and plenty of nuance. The richness of the candied orange peel, apricot jam and pineapple notes is balanced by expressive floral notes that bring freshness and further shades of nuance. This is very nicely done.

2014 on the Mosel: Man Bats Last (Nov 2016)

Clementine, gooseberry and crab apple deliver a tart, bright message on the nose, but the animated cheek-tugging palate impression is underlain by hints of site-typical nuttiness that probably indicate the slightly deeper, richer direction this wine will take after a few years in bottle. The finish is invigoratingly pungent and generously juicy, if not quite…

2014 Germany: Riesling Resists Rain on the Rhine (May 2016)

White peach, fresh fig and apple are signaled on the nose and go on to lusciously dominate a buoyant, polished, caressing mid-palate. Hints of inner-mouth floral perfume add allure, but I miss the finishing clarity and sheer refreshment delivered by the corresponding Krötenpfuhl, and for now, at least, there is a not entirely positive sweet-sour…