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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru has a fresh and vibrant nose, much more complex and terroir-driven than the Meursault Charmes. The palate is well balanced with a reductive entry, but there is tension here and decent length. This is a little better than the sample tasted a few months ago.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(from 45- to 50-year-old vines planted on limestone; vinified with two-thirds whole clusters): Slightly hazy red. Deep but youthfully stunted aromas of black raspberry and licorice. Very rich and quite dry; less expressive today than most of the estate’s 2016s from the Côte de Beaune but conveys subtle saline minerality. Finishes with chalky, fine-grained tannins…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

From 104-year-old vines that are still productive, the 2019 Charmes-Chambertin Les Mazoyères Grand Cru includes 100% whole bunches. It might well possess my pick of the bouquets from Vougeraie, offering vibrant red berry fruit infused with lovely incense and blood orange scents. The harmonious palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, well-judged acidity and beautiful balance….

The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)

The 2015 Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts is delicate and nicely lifted, with good aromatic presence. Delicate, sweet spice, floral notes, red stone fruits and mint are nicely delineated. This is an especially sculpted wine, particularly within the context of the vintage. The Petits Monts is bottled only in magums and jeroboams. Sadly, there is just…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

The 2016 Nuits St. Georges La Richemone 1er Cru shows the power and muscle that are typical of the site. Super-ripe black cherry, mocha, new leather, licorice and game add to the wine’s burly, potent feel. I imagine the tannins will always remain a bit unpolished. The Richemone doesn’t have the finesse of the very…

The Undiscovered Burgundy (Jun 2017)

The 2015 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze shows a lot of new oak today, which masks the fruit. But there is good depth, power and richness. Here, too, the wine gives the impression it needs time to fully come together. The new oak is a bit prominent at this stage, but there is good depth of fruit…